Visit Report 2012
[Source: Matilde Cooke - January 2013]
There are more pictures at the end of the report
Sandi and I had been Alma reps for about four years. The first couple of years it all seemed a bit bizarre, being linked with a Portuguese speaking parish in Africa? How did that happen? Then we started getting curious. The breakthrough was when I found Helen van Koevering on Facebook! I couldn’t believe it, it seemed surreal.
Soon the van Koeverings were here for one of their flying visits. No, they did not have time to meet or come to St. Peters. Did they need a lift to the airport? Yes!
Sheenagh kindly facilitated. I had 30 minutes with them in my car! They urged us to visit, told me about the work they are doing, teams of life, building sustainable mechanisms, giving responsibility back to the Africans.
We decided we must visit Messumba. See for ourselves. Connect with our friends. Strengthen the link. Our Church Committee agreed. We had had a visit FROM Messumba 5 or 6 years ago from Father Msosa and his sister. It was time to repay this visit.
Our flights went to Llilongwe (Malawi) via Nairobi and Lusaka. We flew Kenya Airways which were excellent. We were met by Bush Aviation (Owner Claudia van Vuren, cost Llilongwe-Litchinga O/W $915 plus departure tax $35pp) who whisked us through the airport and into a lovely lounge to wait for our tiny four seater plane.
Eventually we walked out to it and met our lovely pilot, Igor who immediately made us feel at ease. We took off. Wonderful views over the enormous lake.
Mario, Helen’s right hand man met us in Lichinga and drove us in a pick up truck to Helen’s and Mark’s House. We were met by the Mothers Union, singing wonderfully. After settling in we set off to the market to change money. We had purposely brought small dollar bills, however this proved a problem. They only wanted large bills and pristine, not even folded! Luckily there was a Barclays Bank with a cash point and we kept our dollars!!!
Amazing market, see pictures.
Supper in an African restaurant where you chose your food and then they weighed it! Very happy to get to bed that night!!!
Next morning we went back to the market with Mario and Rosa (head of the Mothers Union in Niassa) who accompanied us throughout the trip and were most helpful. Eventually we got on the Messumba bus, a small people carrier that they squeezed 23 people into. It was a 3-hour drive. Father Bonifacio who is soon to be taking over in Messumba from the retiring Father Franco met us here and travelled with us from here on.
A beautiful drive. So excited approaching Messumba.
When the road ended we had a short walk and then crossed the river. While crossing we were told that crocodiles have snatched four people so far this year. However they assured us that the Crocs did not like white people, so we needn’t worry!
Entering Messumba we were surprised at the large village sprawling out in front of us. The Mothers Union was waiting to greet us and sang and danced all the way up to our hut where we were staying. (Incidentally there had been a lot of debate as to where we would stay. No one has ever stayed in the village before. An option was to stay in a nearby resort on the lake. However, we felt that being there for just a few days we wanted to be with our friends and get to know them as well as possible.) We didn’t know it at the time but this made our visit extra special to them.
We were all seated very formally, the Fathers and Churchwarden, and Secretary. All so pleased to finally be face to face. Father Bonifacio, Mario, John, Sandi and I were sharing the hut. Our first meal was a lesson in Messumba traditions. Rosa pours water slowly from a cup into a basin for us to take turns and wash our hands. Father Franco said a prayer. Then, we ate our delicious meal of cassava mash rolled into big balls, rice and bean stew with our hands.
We were told of the schedule prepared for us for the next three days. Very busy, making the most of our visit, which was great.
Mothers Union Service, Church Committee Meeting, Tour of Messumba neighbourhoods- Biro, Babel, inspect an Equipa da Vida stove, and compost toilet, see cassava fields. Visit Chuenga Parish.
The next morning we were woken at about 5.30, when the Mothers Union Ladies arrived with buckets of water they have carried for 2 km. They light the fires on the ground outside our window and start to heat the water for our “bath”. There is a little enclosure with a hole in the ground and a separate space where you can have a bath by pouring cups of water on yourself. Amazing how little water you need! Then we went up the hill to the Cathedral and the Mothers Union Service. After the lovely service with lots of dancing and singing, we had a formal committee meeting. We were told how pleased they were with this gift of our visit, and also presented various requests. After lunch we visited the neighbourhoods in Messumba. A beautiful place- little traditional huts enormous baobab trees, tall grass and mango trees. Small fields of cassava and corn. Goats, and pigs running riot. The wonderful happy children, following us everywhere. And everyone so friendly, kind, welcoming. “Asante!!!” The Nyanga greeting. “Hello!” And we started to understand something very important. These people do not speak Portuguese. They speak the language of the Lake - Nyanga. This language is spoken all around the lake, which has been chopped up into the countries of today by colonial powers. The English missionaries came across the lake from Malawi, to this isolated spot. The Portuguese did not really venture this far inland, except perhaps to capture slaves. Our English was translated into Portuguese by Mario and then from Portuguese into Nyanga by Father Franco. And back the same way.
During our visit we became very good at public speaking. Standing up before big congregations and trying to say something meaningful and kind. Our efforts were helped greatly by this translation procedure; we had time to think of something good to say next! On this first day we met the group of vulnerable orphans - orphans with no family at all, as opposed to orphans living with relatives. They are looked after by Monica, Father Msossa’s sister. We also met a family where the son, a young man had had his eye damaged two years ago by fire. We gave him enough money to travel to Lichinga to have it seen to. Health care is free in Mozambique, if you can get yourself to the hospital.
Very similar supper, with fish stew, and to bed. We were exhausted!
Visit to primary and secondary school, visit Matenge Community Parish (8km walk), find Carpenter, take official photos of each Messumba Family Group, See the N’Ganda Drumming group.
Inspection of the primary school 12 class rooms, and secondary school, four class rooms. The first in quite a bad state, foundations obviously not sound and so big cracks are appearing in most walls. Secondary School new, recently built, [as part of ALMA 2008 Lent Appeal] but even here the odd crack is starting to appear.
Very keen pupils of all ages. There are three - four shifts of pupils each day. Some of the secondary pupils were quite an age, which was great to see. We took pictures of each class and chatted to them. Some classes had prepared a song for us. The children are packed in, they sit on the floor and look after their books like treasures. Obviously books cost money and they are so worried about losing them, clutching them to their chests at all times.
Then we walked about 5 km to the Community of Matenge. The whole community were there waiting, and had been waiting since early morning.
The MU women met us again and escorted us dancing and singing to their church made of homemade bricks and covered with a tin roof. We were placed on three chairs at the front, facing the congregation like Royal visitors. The Matenge church secretary stood up and expressed how happy they were to have us. They had never had visitors before, EVER! They asked us for cement to finish pointing the walls of their church. Eventually it became clear to Sandi and me that we were expected to stand up and address the congregation. It is something we hadn’t really expected or thought about. But it went well, we helped each other along and spoke mostly to the MU and the children while John was in charge of the religious and ceremonial part. It was helpful that the translations went English- Portugese-Nyanga, and then back the same way, so we had time to think carefully about what to say next.
After the service the community gathered outside to have their photo taken, including the man in the amazing homemade Bicycle/wheelchair. As we left, the children followed us through the tall grass and the Messumba churchwarden, Jamie Eduardo cut us sugarcanes to chew on the way home. Lunch and a quick rest. John and I walked down to find the carpenter (we wanted a shelf made for our Messumba corner in St Peter’s). Meanwhile Sandi started the portrait sessions for all the family groups. These proved a great success. Each family was presented with a professional photo on Sunday morning! (Sandi had brought paper and a small printer.) After these sessions we watched the local N’Ganda group rehearsing. Drumming and dancing young men and women. This particular group had been selected as the best group in the whole region and were practicing for their performance for the President’s visit next week. They were amazing. Late that night after supper we moved our little bench away from the light (Messumba has had electricity for 8 months now) and sat looking at the stars. Exhausted!
Visit Mondue Community Parish Church, visit sick priest on the way back, visit St Lukes Church, Chuenga, Final Messumba Committee meeting
We woke early again, the ladies were making up the fires again. After our wash and a cup of coffee (I had brought some nice instant!) we set off for Mondue Community parish. This time we headed north along the lake shore. Tall grass and little neighbourhoods along the way. The MU ladies met us with song and dance and escorted us into their little church, right on the beach. It was built in 2008-9, Sao Leonardo (St Leonard’s) 333 members, three catechists two choirs and the MU.
Like before we were sat on grand chairs at the front, facing the congregation. All the choirs had been amazing, but these ones were stunning. Strong melodic voices with an ingrained rhythm rising from this little place. Incredible view looking out of the church door- golden sand and azure lake, the odd hollowed out canoe passing on its way to fish, the children fishing with long poles from the shore. John, Sandi and I are now experts at this public speaking, we enjoyed it. The MU ladies danced an offering up the aisle for us, a big bowl of their rice for us to take home. This is a valuable gift, we will take it home to share with St. Peter’s. We left them having a local meeting with the village chief, Peppo, and went down to the lakeshore for a swim. Calm water, hot day, beautiful. All the children followed us down and watched fascinated. We played football with them and every time we scored Sandi and I did big high fives which they thought was very funny. Then I decided to teach them Ellen’s song- we divided them into five groups and taught them each section, then put it together. They were brilliant, it was great fun! After another quick dip it was time to go back. This time we walked along the beach itself. We saw a giant lizard that had been strangled with a dry grass noose. Families bathing and washing. Father Kakongwe showed us the site, just off shore, where the original Cathedral has been. The waters of the lake have risen and covered it completely. The missionaries moved it further inland, up on a hill. We found Father Domenicus who obviously had a temperature as he was wearing lots of clothes and a hat. He didn’t seem too poorly.
After lunch we walked down to visit St Lukes, in Chuenga. (south along the lake) They had an amazing choir rehearsing. We then went to inspect the Swedish Huts built on stilts by the lake. A Swedish tree planting company has built them for their employees. Great situation, very simple.
Sandi and I went for a run along the beach. Boys fishing, canoes in the sunset- really stunning! On the way home we stopped in a little bar and had a beer. Waded through the river again at dusk (most dangerous time for crocs) and back for the final committee meeting. This was a summing up and a giving of gifts. Rosa translated and Fr Kakongwe said that they were so happy we had come all this way to visit them. Communication has been difficult but now we are together and have strengthened the bond. The whole community has been so happy to see our lovely faces. Our friendship will be long, we have enjoyed seeing you so happy together, playing, smiling and having nice time.
We gave them ten footballs to go to the various neighbourhoods. A big collection of reading glasses and small soaps and shampoos for the MU. A framed picture of St Peter’s in the snow. And we played them a DVD of the St Peters Sunday School saying hello!
Most importantly, we exchanged all possible personal information, phone numbers, addresses etc.
Yes, now we will always stay in touch!
That night the Cathedral on the hill behind us was under siege! Visiting youth choirs from all over had come to sing the next day. They had walked very far to get here and were singing till the early hours. We went to have a look and sat listening to lots of young people having a great time!
Our last morning in Messumba was very appropriately spent in St Bartholomew’s Cathedral.
John gave a wonderful sermon in the Sunday Eucharist, and the singing of all the visiting choirs was astonishing. Our gifts were formally presented and we were given wonderful gifts, baskets, capulanas, and John was given a fishing net to symbolize the fishing of men. These can all be found in our Messumba corner at St Peter’s Church. We did our last talk from the front, thanking them for these amazing days and their kind welcome. Then it was time to go. We rushed off down the hill, across the river and up to the bus stop. There was a problem with the bus and we were taken in a pick up truck with a basket full of dead fly-covered goat to the village of Metangula. Here we found the bus and were taken back to Lichinga. The bus driver very kindly dropped us at the airport forcing the whole bus on a detour, but Igor was just flying in as we arrived and our latest departure time was 2pm. Father Bonifacio, Father Kakongwe, Rosa and Mario all accompanied us right on to the tarmac. They had looked after us so well. Now it was time for final goodbyes.
Another lovely safe flight with Igor back across the lake and then gradual travels back to our reality.
Soon after returning to London we arranged a Messumba evening at St Peter’s. We recounted our tales and showed the wonderful images captured.
The rice we had been given in Mondue was cooked along with a delicious Mozambican fish stew. We felt that in this way we shared our experiences and the precious gift that was given us, was passed on to the whole of St. Peter’s Congregation.
Mozambique Fish Stew - Serves/Makes:
Ingredients:
How to cook Mozambique Fish Stew:
Our voyage to Messumba changed the nature of our relationship with them completely.
It went from being remote and impersonal to being close, personal and fun.
We are in regular contact with Father Bonifacio sharing news and prayers. Living in a hut near the Cathedral and the hospital made us realize that this neighbourhood needed a well. In June 2012 we held one of our bike4bike events and raised almost all the money needed to build it. The work is going ahead this year with strong participation from the people of Messumba.
Our link is precious to us and the whole congregation feels part of this African Adventure, started a long time ago by some very brave missionaries.
Assante Messumba!
St Bartholomew’s cathedral
